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Salem, My Soul Place

Writer's picture: Sabrina MarraSabrina Marra

Have you ever traveled somewhere and instantly felt like you belong there? That you’re drawn to that place? Some people call that a “Soul Place”. A Soul Place is anywhere you feel a greater sense of harmony and ease. When you go to this place you react to it – an intense longing for it. You feel inspired there; more so than you typically do. And you feel at peace there.

I found my Soul Place. When I was ten or eleven years old, although I didn’t know what it was at the time. From the first time I went to Salem as a child I felt at home. Felt drawn there. I didn’t understand then what the feeling of being drawn to a place or at peace in a place meant. But I do now. Every year, at least once or twice, I try to journey to Salem. I’ve been going down to Salem for Halloween nearly every year since I believe 2011. Last year was the first year since probably 2015 that I wasn’t in Salem on Halloween. I did go down earlier in the month, but I don’t count it.

Salem during October, especially ON Halloween, is an experience. If you love Halloween, I recommend experiencing it at least once. The atmosphere, the energy, is infectious.

Recognizing that Salem is my Soul Place took longer than I thought it would honestly. I think six years ago – 2014 – was when I first actually realized it. 2014 was the first year that I was in Salem during the Halloween season in a while. Not on Halloween because I was still working at Turning Stone Casino, but the week of. Regardless, when I was able to just “get lost” in the city with my headphones in and my camera around my neck partly solidified my belief that I’m drawn to Salem.

The second factor? I never want to leave. If I had the funds or the ability to, I’d move to Salem in a heartbeat.

The third and final factor in realizing Salem is my Soul Place? Writing. Yes, I know it’s weird. I’ve been writing stories ever since I was about seven years old and bored at my baby-sitter’s house. I go through periods where I’m STUCK. I refuse to say the phrase most writers use when their muses are giving them hell. Whenever I go to Salem STUCK, it’s like a flood gate lifts and I’m able to write for hours. I’ve done writing retreats to Salem where I just stay in the hotel and write or I just wander around the city notebook in hand. A few times I’ve actually sat in my car while just resting from an endless day of walking or recharging my phone and lost a whole hour or more filling my notebooks I didn’t have in me before. I ALWAYS carry a notebook with me, especially when in MA. I do have a laptop, and a tablet with a Bluetooth keyboard, but seeing my thoughts on paper is so much more for me.

So, if you’re still here after reading my ramble about Salem being my Soul Place, allow me to take you on a virtual tour of the city I love so much, and wish I could call home.

Getting to Salem

Whether you fly, drive, take the train, take the ferry, or a broom (insert corny witch joke about Witch City here) that’s your preference. But, I drive to Salem, so that’s how this tour is going to go.

Parking

Salem has several parking garages, and lots. Especially during October. You’ll see lots of random parking lots – most of them expensive. I have three go-to parking options that I use when I travel to Salem both during October and not.

1. MBTA Commuter Garage (252 Bridge St, Salem, MA)

a. If you’re coming from Danvers, Beverly, Gloucester or most points West and North of Salem this is probably going to be the first garage you’ll see. This is my go-to because it’s the fastest way out of the city. Also, the price is great and on Halloween you can sit and watch the fireworks. The only downside is that on Halloween night you can’t exit the garage between 8:00 pm – 1:00 am due to the massive crowds taking the Commuter Rail out of Salem.

b. Rates

i. Weekdays = $5 for $14 hours

ii. Weekends = $2


2. Salem Harbor Garage (10 Congress St, Salem, MA)

a. The location and price make this my second go to choice for parking. It’s right near Derby St and the Wharf, while the MBTA is a minute or so walk to downtown. The New England Pirate Museum is right across the street (on the Derby St side).

b. Rates

i. Weekdays = $0.75/hour

ii. Weekends = $1.50/hour

iii. October = $10 - $30 on Weekends and Halloween


3. Witch City Garage (1 New Liberty St, Salem, MA)

a. This is my third go to. Usually I’m able to get into either the MBTA Garage or Salem Harbor Garage, but this a good option as well. This garage used to be called Museum Place Garage (the mall recently changed names for those of you who haven’t been to Salem in a while). The garage is attached to Witch City Mall, and right near the Visitor’s Center, and Essex St. During October it fills up FAST.

b. Rates

i. Weekday/Weekend = $1.50/hour

ii. October = $10 - $30 on Weekends and Halloween

First Stop

If you’ve NEVER been to Salem before, your first stop after parking should probably be the Salem Visitor’s Center (2 Liberty St, Salem, MA). They’re the information hub. They are typically open Sunday – Saturday from 10:00 am – 5:00 pm, expect for during the winter/off season where their hours change.

At the Visitor’s Center, you can get maps, sign up for certain tours, browse the bookstore, or watch park films.

During October there’s also an information booth on the intersection of Essex St & Washington St. they have information, maps, a guide to October events, and since it’s run by Salem locals, they can answer all your questions.


Museums

Salem has no shortage of museums. There are so many, and I’ve been to a good chunk of them. Some of them several times due to going with friends who haven’t been.

1. The Salem Witch Museum (19 ½ Washington Square N, Salem, MA)

a. You can’t miss this museum. The giant church-looking building stands at the edge of Salem Common, close to the statue of Roger Conant (he’s not a witch!). And funny enough it used to be a church, and then an Auto Museum. It opened as The Salem Witch Museum in 1972. During October, especially on the weekends, I’d advise getting here EARLY. The line to get in is often out the building and down the street most of the day. The first part of the museum tour includes mannequins portraying various scenes of the witch trials as a recorded voice speaks about each scene. In that room, in the center of on the floor, is a red circle with all the names of the people put to death in 1692.

b. The second part of the museum is called Witches: Evolving Revolution, which talks about witches and how people have perceived them throughout history, in reality and in fiction.

c. Also, their gift shop is one of my favorites. Sometimes I often just pop into the gift shop to see what’s new.


2. New England Pirate Museum (274 Derby St, Salem, MA)

a. Do you love Pirates of the Caribbean? Or just pirates in general? This museum is for you. Join a costumed guide on an amazing tour of Salem’s pirate history, and pirate history in general. They have some really cool souvenirs too. Just keep your eye open, you never know what be lurking.

b. If you’re doing a day or two of museums you can save $8 per person a with a combo ticket that brings you to #3 and #4 on the list, as well as this museum.


3. Witch History Museum (197 – 201 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. Witch History Museum sits directly on Essex St, surrounded by shops, a hotel, restaurants, and more. This is not my favorite of the museums on my list – the reviews range from bad to good, but I’ll let you make your own decisions.


4. Witch Dungeon Museum (16 Lynde St, Salem, MA)

a. Beginning with a live enactment of a scene from the trials, followed by being taken down into a replica of the dungeon this museum is quite interesting in my opinion. They even have one of the actual beams from the 1692 dungeon on display. Outside the museum, you can take your photo in one of the pillory’s. They’re not stockades – those are for your feet.


5. Salem Witch Village (282 Derby St, Salem, MA)

a. This museum deals with both the history of the witch trials, and a history of witchcraft. The giftshop also has a good variety of things. It’s been a while since I’ve been to this one honestly.

6. The Witch House (310 ½ Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. This is honestly my favorite of the museums in Salem. It’s the only building with direct ties to the Witch Trials as it was the home of Judge Jonathon Corwin. This is mostly a self-guided tour but they do have staff on hand to answer questions. They do allow photography, but to preserve the old artifacts, DO NOT use flash. The Witch House also manages #7 on this list.


7. Pioneer Village (Forest River Park)

a. Located in Forest River Park, Pioneer Village is a bit of a walk from downtown and has very select hours. It’s known as America’s first living history museum, and contains examples of colonial architecture, as well as dugouts, wigwams and more.

b. Also, a FUN FACT about Pioneer Village is that the beginning scene of Hocus Pocus where Emily is taken was filmed there and you can actually go inside the house. It’s not the Sanderson’s Cottage (that was on a sound stage), but I believe it’s Thackery and Emily’s house.


8. The House of Seven Gables (115 Derby St, Salem, MA)

a. The House of Seven Gables is the last museum on my list. Go there for a tour of author Nathaniel Hawthorne’s birthplace. Tour the House of Seven Gables. You’ll also get to climb the famed secret staircase. Although, if you don’t like enclosed spaces, I would not recommend doing so.

b. If you’re looking to get married, they also do weddings here as well. And during October, they have additional nighttime performances, which this year is actually the last year for those (insert sad face).

Non-Museum Attractions

You don’t have to spend money to see history in Salem. It doesn’t hurt, but there are several locations in Salem, with both maritime and Witch Trial history that don’t cost a cent. This last has both free and paid locations.

1. Proctor’s Ledge (7 Pope St, Salem, MA)

a. This location isn’t in downtown Salem. I recommend doing this before you park in Salem for the day. I recommend parking at Gallows Hill Park (on Mansell Parkway), and walking down Pope Street (Proctor’s Ledge is on the left).

b. Proctor’s Ledge is a memorial that was created in 2017. A stone wall with names of the men and women that were wrongly put to death forms a half circle, and is a place of reflection at the exact spot where they died all those years ago.

a. Created in 1992 – the 300 year anniversary of the Witch Trials – this memorial is a somber place of reflection of the horrific events that led to 20 people being wrongly executed.

b. Each person who died is represented by a stone bench that lists their name, the day they died, and how they were executed. If you visit this memorial, ESPECIALLY in October, please click this LINK. It talks more about the design of the memorial, and things to do or not to do.


a. Salem’s Oldest Cemetery, founded in 1637, resides behind the Salem Witch Trial Memorial. None of the trial victims are buried here, nor are they buried at the memorial (I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been asked that). Giles Corey’s first wife Mary, and Judge John Hathorne are the two people buried here that have ties to the witch trials. Also, Cotton Mather’s younger brother Nathanael is buried here.





4. Bewitched Statue (235 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. Not really a history lesson, but there is a statue paying tribute to TV’s Elizabeth Montgomery who played Samantha Stevens on the show Bewitched. Bewitched actually filmed eight episodes of their seventh season in Salem and in Gloucester.










5. Howard Street Cemetery (29 Howard St, Salem, MA)

a. In the back corner of the cemetery, closer to where the St Peter St Apartments (former jail) are, is said where Giles Corey was pressed to death for three days in 1692.


6. Cry Innocent (32 Derby Square, Salem, MA)

a. This one costs money, but it is absolutely worth it if you want a different take on history. This is a reenactment of the trial of Bridget Bishop who was the first to be put to death in 1692. As the audience, you listen to the testimony of several different people, and then vote on if there is enough evidence to charge Bridget.

b. In October there is a free pre-show performance called the “Town News” which takes place outside the Town Hall on Essex St, and then proceeds inside to the second floor of the Town Hall.

7. Witch Pix (172 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. Witch Pix is one of my all-time favorite things to do in Salem. I’ve done it by myself and with friends. It’s a witchy themed photo studio that is open most of the year.

b. You can either wear one of the many costumes they have on hand, or you can wear your own. A lot of people that go to Witch Pix, especially in October, often wear their own costumes. If you choose to wear one of their costumes, they’re absolutely gorgeous.

c. They have several spooky backdrops for you to pose in front of, and various witchy props. The photographers are absolutely amazing. They are great at directing the photo session, and coming up with poses if you’re lost for ideas.

d. After your session you’re able to purchase prints, or a CD with all of the digital files of the photos you had taken. Whether you do this solo or with friends; during October or the rest of the year, Witch Pix is a must do when in Salem.

e. The prices start as low as $41 for a 30-minute session with one print and go up in price depending on how many people are in your group and how many prints (or digital) that you want.

f. Also, they sell gorgeous cloaks on their website that are made exclusively in Salem. You can get your own Witch City Exclusive Cloak.


a. Walk along Derby Wharf for some amazing ocean views and to see what shops and restaurants are down that way.

9. Ropes Mansion and Garden (318 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. Ropes Mansion AKA Allison’s house in Hocus Pocus (just the exterior, trust me the inside is way smaller than it looks) is gorgeous to look at, and is occasionally open for a self-guided tour by the Peabody Essex Museum.

b. The gardens in the back of the house are absolutely gorgeous when in bloom and perfect for photographing, or just for getting away from the crowds.


Shopping

Who doesn’t love shopping? Salem has loads of shops with tons of souvenirs, books, and more. I’m not going to list ALL of the shops in Salem, obviously, but here are my favorite shops to frequent, in alphabetical order.

1. Artemisia Botanicals (3 Hawthorne Blvd, Salem, MA)

a. My go to for loose tea. I don’t drink it, but my friends do, so whenever I’m down in Salem I stop by here to pick up some tea or spices to ship to friends or use for baking.


2. Coon’s Card & Gift Shop (226 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. Coon’s is one of my favorite gift shops. They have lots of t-shirts, hoodies, and other souvenirs. They also have a pet boutique inside. It was recently remodeled in the last couple years and it’s absolutely amazing.


3. Moody’s Home & Gifts (131 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. Eclectic mix of locally made products and global fair trade goods. Carrying a variety of home decor, housewares, seasonal decor, Salem inspired gifts, souvenirs, personal accessories, and jewelry.

b. Also, they sell Salem themed candles created by a Salem local. They smell absolutely amazing. Check out her blog, History by the Sea.


4. Partridge in a Bear Tree (82 Wharf St, Salem, MA)

a. Located down by Derby Wharf, this shop is your resource for holiday decor, candles, souvenirs, unique gifts, and funny cards.


5. Remember Salem/Wynot’s Wands (127 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. Love Harry Potter? These are the stores for you. Remember Salem is a Harry Potter themed store, with loads of Harry Potter merchandise. Wynot’s Wands is the store next door, and it’s Salem’s version of Olivanders. The wands are all handmade, as well as selling some of the character wands from the movies.


6. Salem Witch Museum Store (19 ½ Washington Square N, Salem, MA)

a. Like I said under the Museums tab, this gift shop is one of my favorites. You can buy most of their stuff online, and they have LOADS of stuff.


7. Salemdipity (86 Wharf St, Salem, MA)

a. Salemdipity and Trolley Depot are sister stores. Salemdipity is located closer to Derby Wharf. They have some amazing souvenirs


8. Trolley Depot (191 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. The flag store to Salemdipity, The Trolley Depot is located centrally on Essex St.


9. Wicked Good Books (215 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. Every town needs a local bookstore. Wicked Good Books is amazing! They often have signed copies of books, and when they had an event with an author that I so wanted to meet they even worked with me to have a copy of that author’s book personalized for myself and my friend and held them in Salem until I was able to come pick them up.


10. Witch City Consignment (301 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. Antiques? Funky stuff? Check this store out. You have to really look around to find interesting stuff. I’ve seen some interesting stuff, and I’ve also gotten some cool stuff here.


11. Witch Tees (181 Essex St, Salem, MA)

a. Souvenir shirts? Matching shirts for a girls weekend? $5 shirts? Witch Tees has them all. Located on Essex Street this shop is centrally located in downtown Salem.


Tours

Salem is home to several tour companies, each specializing in different parts of Salem’s history. I haven’t been on all of them – I’m working on it – but there are two that I definitely recommend.

a. Salem Night Tour was the first tour I did in Salem. I’ve done it probably five times, sometimes by myself, sometimes with friends who haven’t been to Salem. The tour guides are amazing.

b. You meet at Remember Salem (the Harry Potter store) and when you buy a tour ticket, you get a discount on anything you purchase at Remember Salem or Wynot’s Wands the day of your tour.


a. I haven’t done this tour while in Salem, but during this whole Corona Virus thing, Witch City Tours has been doing an online virtual tour of Salem, and it’s amazing. I love that they’re actually doing this while people can’t get to Salem, and I can’t wait to do the actual tour when in Salem.

b. Check out this link (their facebook page) to scroll through and you'll find the videos of their virtual tour.


Food

New England food is spectacular. As a fussy adult I have to look at menus before I even decide to eat at a restaurant. I’d hate to get to a restaurant and have there be nothing on the menu that I like. I’ve had hood from a few restaurants in Salem (one of my favorites is now closed). These are my go to restaurants in Salem. I need to visit some of the others soon.

If you eat out in Salem, TIP. ESPECIALLY during October. The servers and staff of these restaurants often work their asses off in October, working long days, long weeks and are always in good spirits. It might be a long wait, they might be busy, but I’ve always had a good experience eating out in Salem. And I always tip at LEAST 20% (if not more). I have friends who work as servers and bartenders, and I used to work in a tipped position. I know what it’s like.

1. Turner’s Seafood at Lyceum Hall (43 Church St, Salem, MA)

a. THIS is my all-time favorite food spot in Salem. I’ve only ever had one thing here (and honestly that’s okay for me). Their Fish & Chips is absolutely outstanding. You can even bring it home and reheat it (ask there how to reheat it, but the oven is best) and it still tastes great. If you’re solo, definitely get the bistro Fish and Chips (it’s three decent sized pieces of Cod vs the dinner size which is six pieces, unless you want leftovers).

b. Turner’s fish comes straight from Gloucester, MA, and you can even purchase fish at market prices at the Salem location, as well as up in Gloucester.

c. Turner's also has slight ties to the Salem Witch Trials, as Bridget Bishop's apple orchard used to be on the land where Turner's now sits. Read more HERE.


2. Red’s Sandwich Shop (15 Central St, Salem, MA)

a. Red’s is the go to breakfast and lunch spot for locals. It’s small inside and on the weekends can get very busy, but the food is worth it. The staff is amazing.

b. If you get the pancakes, just get ONE! They’re as big as the plate. Thankfully a regular of the restaurant told me that before I ordered and got three pancakes bigger than my head.


3. Brodie’s Seaport (215 Derby St, Salem, MA)

a. Great food, located on Derby St, headed closer to the Wharf. Their fish and chips are good, but second to Turner’s.


Where to Stay

I’ve never stayed in downtown Salem so I won’t review those hotels. I’ll let you do that. Typically I stay outside of Salem because of the fact that the hotels always sell out, and during October the prices are insane. Staying outside the city and driving in saves me a lot of money, but I do wish to one of these days stay in downtown.

1. Ocean House Hotel at Bass Rocks (107 Atlantic Rd, Gloucester, MA)

a. This hotel is ABSOLUTELY amazing. It’s my favorite hotel to stay in. It’s located on Atlantic Road in Gloucester, MA.

b. If you can, try to get a room on the first floor. Your room has a tiny patio, and you literally can walk out of your room and down to the ocean. The ocean views are absolutely gorgeous no matter what time of day you look at them.

c. There’s a pool, giant chess set (not Harry Potter, but still giant), and fire pit where people can sit out at night enjoying the view and listening to the waves.


2. Motel 6 Danvers (65 Newbury St, Danvers, MA)

a. This is my second go to hotel when traveling to Salem. Not all Motel 6’s are the same. This Motel 6 is absolutely great. It’s located about fifteen minutes from Salem (honestly it’s not a bad drive) and is located down the road from The Putnam Pantry, and locations in Danvers that you can read about in my other MA blog post.


3. Hilton Garden Inn Burlington (5 Wheeler Rd, Burlington, MA)

a. This is about the same distance from Salem as Gloucester (about half an hour), but it’s not close to the ocean. The hotel is gorgeous, and close to malls, grocery stores, restaurants, and more. If you don’t want to stay in Boston, but want a hotel that’s close to lots of things, and not so close to the ocean or to Salem, this is a great option.

Finally!

Sorry for the long post, but there are so many amazing things to see and do in this amazing city. I hope that this Corona Virus is over with soon so that I can go to my Soul Place again and review even more places.


I didn't add in any location tours (other than small mentions of Hocus Pocus). That'll be a separate blog post when I actually get down to Salem again (hopefully this year).

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